I am a carpenter and designer, living in a small island community on the largest freshwater lake in the world. I am deeply invested in disrupting the cycle of intergenerational trauma in my own lineage and my communities. I am more interested in the exploration of questions than the proving of answers.
St Jean Pied de Port — Roncesvalles — Zubiri — Pamplona — Puenta la Reina — Estella — Torres del Rio — Logrono — Najera — Granon — Belorado — Ages —Burgos — Hontanas — Boadillo — Calzadilla — El Burgo Ranero — Leon — Hospital de Orbigo — Foncebadon — Pieros — Santiago de Compostela — Finisterre
I’m writing in the first page. I’m at the beginning of the adventure, ona plane to Paris with four seats—the center row—all to myself, drinking a Sam Adams (only independent brewery available on this Delta flight), eating my life-saving and ingenious spring roll salad from Sassy Spoon, and listening to the original score from The Lion King while reading a YA adventure-fantasy novel. Wildwood Imperium.
In seven hours and some change I’ll be landing in Paris CDG, then bus/train/walk to my first hostel on the Camino. I’ll sit down to a meal with the hospitaleros, fellow pilgrims, and the wide open mouth that is the head of the Camino Frances. the adventure has begun.
An empty airplane is so gloriously silent. No babies crying, or toddlers shouting. Places to sleep for everyone wanting. The bathroom, always open. I have a history of restless leg syndrom and total inability to sleep on airplanes but I tell ya, when you can lay across four seats in Delta Comfort, with four blankets and four pillows, four tray tables and four places to stow your stuff, sleeping is practically inevitable.
I look forward to finding some bread & espresso once in Paris, and the butterflies in my stomach have finally settled. For a moment.
I forgot to tell you the whole point of writing about sleeping on a plane, anyway! The only people anywhere near me consist of 3 humans. One, a boy my age whom I overheard telling the stewardess he is going to visit his sister in Barcelona. The other, a couple about in their 50’s, awfully sweet, who, once I laid down, covered my chilly feet with one of their extra blankets. She got out of her seat to do it. It sounds so trivial, but I’d never in a million years expect a fellow traveler on an airplane to do that for me or anyone.
Hola! Que lastima! La comida no es tan bueno que yo imagen. Pero es suficiente. For now, I am happy, a little bit drunk on Spanish wine, really really paranoid I will get bedbugs and/or blisters, hoping I make friends and/or learn life lessons, and so on and so on.
I am staying with Dutch hospitaleros and several hundred other people, ready to go to bed at 8pm, nervous for tomorrow, so excited to see Alex (in a month). How about our 30-second recap of the day!
Sheep herder with the two puppies and two french folks with chalk. Language barrier is challenging. Wine everywhere and it’s strong. First time I’ve ever had fish served whole with the head on and everything. Dutch women biking from Holland. New York couple hiking for one week. Brooke from London (living there) / Neuseeland (citizen). Sooo tired, downhill is the worst. Horses crossing the road, and sheep! Lots of sheep. Time for bed at 8:45pm. Need to do stretches first. Then sleep.
Well, I stretched more during the day but not nearly enough. I’m also not drinking enough water because my pee is dark yellow. I’ve walked with a group of Canadians and a Kiwi today: Brooke, Allen, Brian and Rob. Rob works for Lululemon, Brooke lived in London for a year and a half, Al & Brian are from Vancouver and Toronto, respectively.
Today we bought veggies at the market, had too-sweet Sangria, soaked our feet in the river. The hostel has a communal shower. Saw Kieth from New York again, boy he’s dull but I don’t want this journal to be negative so that’s all I’ll say. I miss Alex like crazy, I already look forward to seeing him at the end of the Camino.
I washed my clothes in the shower which seems to have worked great. I hope tomorrow I start feeling stronger.
Today, we stayed in the albergue municipal. I’m paranoid about bedbugs and I think at least for now I’ve decided to just book it by bike in some of the final days instead of rush ahead right now. I’ve formed a group I really like walking with and want to stick with them.
We talked about the holocaust kind of a lot today.
Pamplona was beautiful (yesterday)! People sit in the street until all hours of the night. But, pinchos/tapas are microwaved :(. The streets of Pamplona are beautiful but maybe I’m not looking in the right spots for food. There’s a reggae concert in the park! Everyone is sitting in the streets drinking and eating.
I tried to find candy that was peanut-butter-chocolate. In vain. Learned that peanut butter is called crema de cacahuete, pero solo tienen crema de cacahuete en solo.
Pamplona has a huuuuge medieval wall surrounding it. Sleep was horrible because of the party and the people on the streets outside the window, plus the super hot temperature and 12 people crammed together, sweating in the noisy room. The window affording lots of street noise and zero ventilation.
Today, we’re on to Puenta la Reina. The walk was filled with ripe blackberries, dill, lavender, rosemary and figs! Brooke and Fiona/Patrick got lost leaving Pamplona so I redirected them to the right path and felt great about being helpful (and about being someone who knew where I was going).
I walked with Lee for a bit, he asked if I’d ever thought about getting a Life Coach. I told him my concerns about not being mentorable.
It was really nice walking alone today most of the time, lots of time to walk and think. I didn’t really think about much in particular, but just to have the forced clear mental space that I said I came on the Camino to find. I also find that I’m much more rejuvenated in conversation both talking and listening once I have a bit of time to rest my brain alone.
I love the midday stops for cafe and for lunch. Twice I ordered in Spanish! I definitely haven’t photographed as much of the food as I should have but I don’t feel guilty about it.
My feet hurt worse than anything today. I had a conversation with Rob about today being the last of the worst days and tomorrow it starts to get better. That your body starts to heal itself. My body does feel much better than yesterday—except for my feet. Also, I am so done with bread. I’ve eaten a full baguette every day. Ready for open-faced sandwiches and salads. Found some relief at La Cepa which was delicious, but expensive.
Also found an amazing bakery for lunch, with pizza and whole wheat cookies. I took a picture of the storefront. It’s still baked goods, but such a relief to have something made from scratch!
I do need to start thinking about where to make up time and break away from the group.
I have my first day of finding my own rhythm! I finally went past the Brierly guides’ recommendation and instead of stopping in Los Arcos went on to Torres del Rio. I talked to many people today! I met Diogo from Brazil who is a mechanical engineer and had no idea what a cedar tree was and does not cook at all. I met Sam from Belgium who likes to cook. Udu and I walked together for a bit today and he like the phrase ‘Lumberjacks’ for snorers. I realized today—or rather thought about how much I like—writing and talking about food. I also surprised myself when I told two different people that I am a good singer.
Talked about the PCT with a mom and son who had an odd dynamic. They said don’t mail things.
Tanny from Armenia shared wine with me and is running the trail. She wanted to go past Logrono but there’s too much to eat in the city. Had burgers with the Irish Ronins; Udu joined us. Made toasted nuts for snack in the hostel kitchen. Had pintxos. Went to Tondeluna for dessert with Brooke and the Ronins (v. fancy). Slept on a clean, very bleach-smelling sheets.
Walked with Allen, Brian, and Rob out of Logrono. Then, Marita and Alan (British, not Canadian) and Javier after. I got ahead of them and ended up walking with Nil (pronounced like Nile) from France and Cristian from Italy. They picked grapes from the vineyard vines. The three of us spoke in Spanish because it was the only language we all three had in common. Cristian is a chef and has walked here from Torino. Both winked at me when they walked by, then we started talking. They are sleeping under the stars every night.
Ok I’m sitting down to write even though all I’d like to do is go to bed. I nuked my stuff to day at ‘En El Camino’. Food was great. very sunburned. Miss my Alex. Blister on bottom of my pinkie toe, on on the top of my toe popped already. Shooting for 44 kilometers tomorrow. Yesterday (9/4, Sunday) I cooked dinner with the only vegetables we could find in town—tomato, onion, and potato. Plus spices. Was f-ing delicious.
I think an important part of the Camino is leaving everyone I’ve met in order to do something I’ve set out to do (get to Santiago de Compostela before end of September).
Narrowly avoided a panic attack because I thought I lost my ‘rock from home’. The one you’re supposed to carry with you. You carry it all the way from home and hold it while you walk. While you hold it, you put things into it about life that you don’t want to carry with you anymore, and then at Cruz de Ferro (highest point on trail) you let the rock go.
Anyway, let’s recap the last few days. Yesterday, I cooked. The day before that, Burgos, and we ate a meal that redeemed all of the Camino’s godawful cuisine because it was so damn good. I also found an organic grocery in the city and stocked up so much that it barely all fit in my pack.
Tomorrow I expect I will leave my trail family, and it will be hard. The physical walk will be hard, and mentally it will be hard. It will be hot, blistered feet, no shade, and all the while we will be leaving our friends. But at the end I get to see Alex. I’m sad about it, but I think it’s something I need to do. For me, for the rock, and for my understanding of my place in the universe. I’ll be lucky enough to have the company of a trail sister on the 44 kilometers, my Kiwi friend Karin.
Well, we did it. Walked 44 kilometers. It wasn’t so bad. Found a stream partway through (okay, a cow trough) to dip my towel in so I could wear it on my head like a turban. Yes, it was 95F and shadeless. Yes, Karin may not have packed nearly enough water for the trek and as a result we both ran out right at the heat of the day. At the end of it all, though, the hostel had a pool to jump into. Plus puppies, a turtle, and parakeets. And, I learned that Erez is Hebrew for ‘Cedar’.
Walked 41 kilometers today to El Burgo Ranero. Talked to Alex for the entirety of the final 7 kilometers of the day. Met an amaerican that I saw in Granon. Bed bugs were next door (one room over) in the Albergue Municipal. They fumigated, but that just means they scared the bugs into the next room over (read: mine). I spent my time this evening with an Israeli man (Ori) and two Slovakians (Ivan & Vlado). We had beer across the street from the Albergue.
Ori said I must stop worrying about making miles and just walk my Camino. Tomorrow, I go 37 kilometers for Leon. Buen Camino. Everything hurts with these big days but I push on. Listen to my body. Drink water. Push on.
Eating tomato spread and thinly sliced prosciutto on brown country bread with fresh-squeezed orange juice. I am in an albergue called the garden ‘El Jardin’, in a town before Leon starting with an ‘M’, 6 kilometers after Religios. I have walked 18 kilometers today and have the same still left to go before Leon. I’m eager to get there for good food and rest, but I need to REMEMBER to enjoy the journey. Otherwise, 12 hours of walking becomes a memory-less grind just for 4 exhausted hours of relaxation before bed. Not to mention my body is going to start falling apart.
If I did the Camino again and had more time, I’d stay here and have a short day in.
Sitting at Ecolmado in Leon, an organic grocery and cafe. Sometimes they have empanadas, but I did not luck out. They don’t have them today. I bought a whole grocery bag full of veggies, cafe con leche, and chocolate for 13 euro. The cafe is close to downtown and the cathedral.
Ecolmado must roast their own beans because they have beans for sale in their own packaging. Cafe con leche comes with toast that has a little bit of tomato spread (pureed tomato, probably with garlic because it is very garlicky), olive oil and a sprinkle of dried oregano. Not something I’d normally pair with coffee but the flavor was fantastic. They also sell eco-baguettes and spelt bread. The baguette is Harina de Maiz and Harina de Centerio (Integra o Blanca, I need to check which). Really really red Roma tomatoes. Actually bought a banana! Fun fact—’cesto’ is Spanish for ‘basket’. I put two and two together and baloncesto is a game where you put a ball into a basket…it’s basketball!
I gave myself a gift, listened to Ori and decided to take a bus across the next 28 kilometers. It will take me out of Leon, to the next town, and essentially buys me the time to 1) enjoy my morning in Leon and 2) enjoy my afternoon/evening at Albergue Verde, an albergue with a huge organic garden next door. I am making every effort to give my hard-working body real food on this last leg of the Camino. I’m also giving it the gift of a day of rest, as much as it hurts me mentally to know that I’ll have ‘skipped’ a section. Ori reassured me several times that the walk out of Leon is all highway, but I think it’s important to experience all of the walk—highway, desert, mountain, or hills. So, I have a few hours until I need to catch my bus, until then, I’ll be exploring this city.
I walked, I think, 43 or 45 kilometers today from Hospital de Orbigo at Albergue Verde. I maybe have met a 2nd camino family. I love everyone here. Texas, Sweden, Germany. We’re in the mountains now and just 2km from Cruz de Ferro. 45 kilometers today! I am so proud and happy and my stone is finished. I’m ready to give it away.
I walked thru Ponferrada, followed by a dog for a bit. Met a guy from Texas, one from Austin, and one from Utah. Talked about homebrewing. Walked with two British brothers. Walked 45 kilometers. Released my responsibility—my rock—at Cruz de Ferro. It is my third night in a vegetarian albergue, and the food is fantastic. I go for the vegetarian places because I assume if they know how to cook vegetables, they know how to cook period. Ya gotta know how to cook to make veggies taste good :).
I’m doing this slightly out of order because I’ve been spending my time with people instead of journaling.
I nearly lost my hair conditioner to the turkish (hole in the shower) toilet at this albergue. It’s called ‘El Refugio’ and their food is scratch-made and fantastic.
Our first full day of rain is tomorrow. 53F and likely pouring and getting colder for the next three days. Good timing for me to have sent my rain pants home. Shit.
El Refugio was fucking delicious. I had 4 chocolate-orange cookies and I don’t even like orange cookies. Walked in the rain, with shorts and a jacket, thought I’d die from the cold. Stopped in somewhere to warm up and had an epiphany to start running the trail to stay warm. I ran in the rain, the rest of the day! And it was glorious. Didn’t listen to music all day. Got to El Beso just past Triacastela with more amazing food.
After El Beso went to The Alquimista, an art-house with a Finnish girl acting as host. We talked about being too proud and that being a challenge we deal with. We talked about how hard it is for us to take criticism. We talked about how similar Finland is to Minnesota. She told me her two favorite towns in Finland, and I marked them on my Google maps for when I visit someday. I was the only person to visit the Alquimista between 9-11:30am.
I am walking quite late today but as it is my 4th to last day hiking solo (before Al joins in Santiago), I am trying to savor it. I am having a very hard time letting go of my ego, especially now that all of these new people have joined the last 100 kilometers of the Camino. I’m having a hard time not judging them with their light packs and careless (or just carefree?) attitude.
Currently in Sarria, eating at an Italian restaurant with approximately 20km left in the day (if I choose to walk that far). The amount of cheese is perfect but the vegetables are canned and soggy.
Heard one wonderful piece of advice to take with me for the rest of the day:
Do not dream your life. Live your dream.
[End of day]
And here I am now at the end of the day. I’m alive! After 12 hours in near-freezing rain and passing one closed-for-the-season albergue, I’m in Portomann and proud of myself. Fucking cold, but proud of myself and will be dry soon. It’s weird seeing people in regular clothes since Sarria, but it doesn’t bother me. I’m scavenging food tonight, but I’m closer to the finish line than expected, which means I can relax a bit the next few days.
I walked with a guy from Barcelona for a while, we both got caught in the rain storm, and we both made it to shelter! What a huge, exhausting day. Sunshine tomorrow. C’mon sunshine.
