June 30, 2017
Lake Wanda (mile 840) to Mile 855 next to the San Joaquin River
Pacific Crest Trail Thru-Hike: Day 57
Another day in paradise.
Things I want to remember about Evolution Valley
The mild ford just before the huge waterfall into Evolution valley. The picturesque ranger station (with a stovepipe missing), fording a few strong creeks today without incident, meeting a group of day hikers who told us exactly where to go for the alternate to VVR (scary-creek-free alternate), this freaking campsite right now just before the turnoff for Muir Trail Ranch, finding out that both MTR and Florence Valley Resort are opening TO MOH ROW. The fucking day we’ll be walking by them. Remember the waist deep (natural waist) ford at Evolution meadow, finding out that Goodale Pass out of VVR not only skips the dangerous Silver Pass, it skips the mortifying waterfall crossing I’ve been dreading.
I hope that when I do the JMT I’ll have a lower snow year so those passes aren’t as dangerous and we can find out what Selden and Silver look like. I grappled a lot with whether we should attempt Bear Creek because I heard its ‘not that bad’, but after talking with Alex and the omens from the trail, the smart and right decision for this abnormal year is to do the long stupid alternate. It’s supposed to be buggy, but mosquitos—as miserable as they may be—don’t put me in a life or death position.
Living in the High Sierra
We have been stopping the last few days to have hot lunch and it has been wonderful. We’ve also been waking up at 5 or 6am, having hot breakfast in the tent, waiting until the sun hits us around 7am to start walking. Having hot breakfast? Let me tell you, THAT has been so nice. We’re still making 15 to 16 miles a day and enjoying every minute of living in the High Sierra. Actually listening to our elders when they say don’t rush through the Sierra.
I’m looking at a rushing river and a campfire, drying our shoes out around the rocks by the fire. My knee in the front has really been bothering me, but I think wearing my running shoes instead of heavy boots is helping. And 1-2 days of rest at VVR will help too.
A Change of Pace and Heart
I dealt with feelings of abandonment the first couple days after our trail family left us, but I feel freedom now. Like that’s what the trail (or universe) wanted for me. I’m not doing the trail alone, but I’m doing it with a partner who I know will support any decision I make, and won’t pressure me in any way to try and sway my confidence or change my mind.
It’s liberating to be able to camp when we’re tired, rest when we’re fatigued, wake up when we’re ready, and take lunch when it just feels right. It could have been the same with a group, but facing my fears of doing it alone, having to make the call every time instead of just following a group decision.
There was also something I thought about my mom today that I wanted to remember to tell her. That she has it pretty well together. She may not be out putting on a public show, but she’s setting an example for doing what counts, and is a really important part of the family. I don’t take that for granted. She has set an example for us in a big way, that taking care of each other for real is more important than trying to put on a face for society, or people outside of that family. We’re far from perfect, but our family has been set up to be strong for a really long time.
Animal Friends in Evolution Valley!
Something else I want to remember: today we saw a marmot way up close. Maybe 4 feet from where we were hanging out, and drying our stuff off after the first shallow ford (above the Evolution waterfall). It was a very curious marmot who probably hoped for some crumbs. Later in the day we saw a male deer on the trail. he quickly ran off, up the hill to avoid us. We saw a lady deer too, and a bird perched right at the tippy top of a tree! We saw a guy and his friend walking toward Evolution meadow, one of them wearing JEANS! But, the non-jean wearer told us the next 11 miles of trail were dirt (as in not snow)—HOORAY!
We still have 13 miles of road walk coming up, but we have two resorts opening up tomorrow that we might get to swing by, and overall I am really looking forward to the alternate, even if it will be through bug-invested swamp town. I also want to remember to try and find an internet version of ‘Scary Stories to Tell in the Dark’ to save to my phone. Listen to it around the campfire!
One last thing— I really hope to hear Ray Charles’ version of America the Beautiful on the 4th of July.